Solo Self Drive through Georgia-2018
I traveled to many countries with family for holidays and did some crazy road expeditions with friends, but this time round wanted to do something different. So I decided to go on a solo driving expedition in Georgia.
Georgia is now a hot destination for Gulf residents as it is close by and expats get a visa on arrival. It was not very difficult to organize this trip. A little time spent watching some vlogs on YouTube and reading some travel blogs gave me a fair idea of what to do and where to go. With hotel bookings and a set itinerary, I began hunting for a decent SUV to support me. Since traveling light and alone, I found the Nissan Xtrail 4×4 most economical and best suited for the trip. With everything set, landed in Tbilisi at 9.00 AM on 9th April 2018 to experience the difference.
Day 1 Tbilisi to Kazbegi: Once landed, did the mandatory things like currency conversion, obtaining a local sim card, etc.( all available in the arrival lounge of the airport) The Xtrail too was readily waiting for me in the parking lot. After a small briefing and signing of the documents I was handed over the vehicle which would be my sole companion for the next 5 days. Wasting no further time set off towards Kazbegi as I had quite a few stops for sightseeing. Was a little bit anxious in the beginning as I was driving alone in a totally new terrain with zero back up. Compared to Dubai, the traffic was very light and I was able to easily negotiate the traffic while getting used to local driving style and the vehicle. Georgia is famous for its local cuisine and the first thing I did was pull up at a highway side bakery and got a Kachapuri to munch in the car. Before I could realize I had entered the beautiful Mtskheta city, one of the oldest cities of Georgia dating back to the 5th century. Due to the historical significance and several cultural monuments, Mtskheta became a UNESCO world heritage site in 1994. It is also the birth place and one of the most vibrant centres of Christianity in Georgia and considered a holy city. My first stop was at the amazing Svetetskhoveli Cathedral. Armed with a selfie stick and camera, captured the beauty of this ancient church. It is the 2nd largest church building in Georgia. Known as the burial site of Christ’s mantle, it is among the most venerated places of worship in the region. The present structure was completed in 1029, although the site itself dates back to the 4th century.
Just a stones throw away is one more beautiful church known as the Samtavro Monastery. This 4th-century church was reconstructed in the 11th century by King George and now is an orthodox church and a Nunnery of St.Nino. The famous Georgian saint Monk Gabriel is buried in the yard of Samtavro. It makes one wonder how these amazing structures were built in those days without any modern-day machinery. All these churches we see here are Greek Orthodox and the style is completely different from the Roman Catholic churches we normally see. Moving forward from Mtskheta, the landscape turns into an endless green carpet. Driving down the peaceful road with car windows open, and savouring the crisp fresh air is what you want on a holiday. The flower sellers with their colorful stalls by the roadside add to the beauty of the place. Moving up into the mountains one can’t miss the humungous Jinvali reservoir. There are many places along the winding roads where you can stop and savor the beauty of the turquoise water. The place has great photo opportunities for the interested ones.
Before you can stop thinking about the beauty of the dam, you have arrived at the ancient Annanuari fortress complex.
It was a castle and the seat of the Dukes of Aragvi. This castle was the scene of numerous battles fought there. Within the complex, amongst the other buildings are two churches. The entrance to the fortress is lined up with stalls selling souvenirs and food. Had been warned at home not to come back with junk as souvenirs, but couldn’t resist the temptation and ended up buying the famed Georgian knife and set of metal shot cups.
Continuing on, there was still a lot of distance to cover to my destination. Now with the view of the snow-clad peaks and the river accompanying me along the road, the drive was more interesting with a fresh wave of coolness invading the car. The scenes around me were so irresistible, that I had to stop at every opportunity to fulfill the needs of my Cannon 5DS. Passing by the Guduari ski resort (which was on my itinerary for the next day) I had a wild idea of what was coming ahead for the next couple of days. By evening reached Kazbegi and checked in at the majestic and beautiful place named Rooms Hotel Kazbegi, the only decent hotel around surrounded by numerous guest houses. The view of Mount Kazbeg (5300 mt) from my room window was mesmerizing. The hotel never disappointed me. The facilities provided and the standards matched the price tag.
As there was plenty of day light available (gets dark after 8 pm) I ventured out on my own heading straight towards the Russian border village of Dariali Gorge. There is a beautiful monastery built on the Georgian side just a stone’s throw away from the border.
Capturing the beauty of the monastery with my lenses, made a failed attempt to visit the Gveletti waterfalls. Even though the vehicle was capable of negotiating the 2 km mountain track, the state of the road and the fear of damaging the rented vehicle made me turn back at half a km. Not sure of the next step, returned back to Kazbegi and parked at the town centre where a few tourists were wandering. The view of the 400+ years old Gergeti Monastery on the hillock was beckoning. The Guy, with a Russian-made LADA, parked next to my car offered to take me to the mountaintop monastery. Felt thankful for not attempting the drive up with my vehicle as the road was full of boulders and feet-deep holes. On the top of the mountain at the foot of Mount Kazbeg lay the beautiful 4 centuries-old monastery. The view of Kazbegi from the monastery looked amazing as the lights started to turn on. The struggle they put in for the construction in remote places and the architecture of those times still amaze me.
Back down in town, hopped into a local joint for some authentic Georgian food and local spirits. Once in Georgia, it’s not worth going back without tasting the famous Chacha shots, Georgian wine and the local beers. No disappointment at all. The lovely food, fantastic drinks and friendly locals is just the recipe for a good holiday. The beautiful clear skies with snow clad mountains in the background was so appealing I had to brave the cold and do some night photography.
Day 2 began with a filling breakfast. Standing in the lounge outdoors was fantastic with the crisp chilled air caressing your face. Plan for the morning was to visit the water falls and a village in the mountains. Didn’t want to risk my vehicle knowing the state of the roads. So hired the same Lada of the previous day as the local was good and friendly. This small vehicle could easily handle these rough bumpy roads. Checked out from the hotel and parked my car in the town where the lada was waiting for me. Negotiating the off-road tracks, reached the point from I had to hike into the mountains on a 1 km narrow and treacherous trail. Except for the concern of my bad knees, it was a wonderful hike to the waterfalls but tiresome. The beautiful and mesmerizing view of the waterfalls vanishes all the tiredness in seconds, It’s so quiet and peaceful over here that you can just sit on a rock listening to the thunderous sound of the waterfall and water gushing downstream. A few pictures at this splendid waterfall are a must for your vacation album. Walking down the trail was quite tricky but not at all tiring.
The next destination the mountain village Juta which is 2600 m above sea level. Driving past the beautiful Sno village, we were treading up the winding unpaved mountain roads. The sceneries around were so breathtakingly beautiful. Every bend on the road had a photo opportunity. The village Juta , perched on the top of the mountains looked so beautiful with its colourful roof tops. The village is completely cut-off from the highway during winters and accessible only by choppers. Not many stay there during winters. Due to its elevation it’s quite cool in the summers and a paradise for the tourists. They have good hiking trails and is also called the heaven of hikers.
After spending sometime walking in the village, we were back in Kazbegi by lunch time. Lunch at a local restaurant was perfect with Kachapuri and Kinkali downed with a local semi sweet red wine. After lunch drove back the most picturesque road in Georgia to Gudauri. Even the thought of driving on these roads gives you goose bumps. The landscape is so pristine and I hope and pray it remains the same for many more years to come, Checked in at the hotel Edelwies a small hotel at the foot of the ski slopes. Heard that the ropeway to the ski slopes close at 4 pm and made a dash to the gondola station which was very close to the hotel. Had experienced the cable cars before in different places, but the experience of sitting on an open bench dangling from a rope few meters above the snow is different. Since it was the end of winter and skiing season, the place was sparsely crowded. Zipping through the fresh crisp wind makes the journey upwards more enjoyable. It was a treat to watch the young and old snowboarding and skiing. This is the best and most affordable place to learn skiing and pursuing the hobby. But my week knees wouldn’t allow me to try this sport.
But nothing could stop me from trying out the snow mobiles. Got to full fill the wish of snow mobiling which I had missed out in Iceland. It was not very difficult for me to ride one as I am experienced with jet skis and dune buggies. In a matter of seconds I was zipping around and splashing snow all over.
Had to have a glass of wine at the bar on the top of the mountain to bring down the rush of adrenaline. It was closing time and I had to rush back to the Gondolas to go down the mountains. It was a wonderful day and I had no clue that I would be doing something more adventurous than riding the snowmobile. A guy approached me and asked if I wanted to go paragliding in tandem. This is one adventure I had always dreamt of and today the opportunity was knocking at me. Within minutes without bargaining on the price I was in his car going up the mountains to the point of take-off. It was a spectacular feeling to see the Para gliders fly in the sky knowing that you would be up there in a few moments. At take-off point, when the glider was being prepared, I was given a briefing on paragliding and yes in minutes I was flying like a bird in the sky soaring above the beautiful snow-clad mountains. My experienced pilot made my experience worthwhile. From above, the sight of the rugged valleys, snow-clad mountains, endless hills, and curvy and clean roads brings a smile to your face with a hint of satisfaction. This adventure in particular will test you, scare you, shock you, and leave you spellbound. Upon landing, my instructor told me that because of my weight, he found it difficult to land smoothly( hahaha). But I was satisfied as there were two adventures in a day I did for the first time.
The place looked haunted at night as it was the end of the season and there were hardly any people around. The rest of the evening was spent recalling the 2 adventures and a quiet dinner at the hotel sipping on a bottle of the best Khvanchkara wine.
Day 3 was again a day for traveling. Morning drove around the place with an 360 degree camera mounted on the car top and got a magnificent video which is great to watch on VR. Couldn’t resist going up the ski slopes again. The prices for everything are so affordable in Georgia, you don’t at all mind spending. After sipping a cup of hot coffee at the mountain top café, came down to the hotel, checked out and began the drive towards Tbilisi. Driving through the mountains, it’s a must to stop and view one more natural phenomenon, the point of confluence of River white Arghavi with river black Arghavi. Even though the rivers meet each other, the clear water of white Arghavi doesn’t mix with the muddy waters of black Arghavi. In fact they travel parallel to each other for more than a kilometre before merging together.
Reached Tbilisi early evening and checked in at Hotel Aleksandria in the heart of the old city. As most of the attractions in old Tbilisi were close to my hotel and accessible by foot, I decided to walk around the place. Old Georgia is full of history and full of churches. Walking past the small lanes gives you a chance to peek into their architecture. The walk began in a small lane lined with cafes on both sides with lots of tourists relaxing in the evening. On the way to Ryke park where the cable car station is, walked on the freedom bridge, visted the Metaki church and the Sioni church.
The cable car ride from Ryke park to Narikala fortress is absolutely gorgeous. The city looks beautiful from the top. Once at the top, a pic with the mother of Georgia is a must have in your album.
The walk down from the fortress to the city is an interesting one. As you walk down you get into a small canyon where there is a beautiful small water falls. The water is rich in Sulphur and you can feel the pungent smell from a distance. All around the area are sulphur baths and few eateries. Sulphur baths are public baths basically built underground and cater to the public. You either book a private suite or use the shared locations where you can bathe in the sulphur rich waters. Also massages are organized at a reasonable rate. As I was not equipped, had to give the sulphur baths a slip. With my mobile battery dead and the power bank refusing to work(without google maps I would be lost) I was forced to return back to the hotel. On the way back didn’t miss taking a pic at the Meidan square in front of the board which reads “ I LOVE TBILISI”.
The 30 minutes’ walk to the hotel was quite interesting exploring the old city area. Had decided to visit the highly rated bar the drunken Owl that night. As the phone charged, I freshened up and walked to the Drunken Owl anticipating a good night. A Total waste of time. It was a dead place and the smallest bar I have been to (wonder how they rate these places). Disappointed and left the place after a couple of drinks, got into a good local restaurant and enjoyed the fantastic local delicacies with their local beer. Again, if you love to try varieties in food, the Georgians have them all.
Day 4 was for the Wine region known as the Khaketi region. It’s like a full day trip. Morning after breakfast drove to Signagi a beautiful town perched on the mountain. Just close to the town is Bodbe monastery overlooking the Alazani valley. Originally built in the 9th century, it has been significantly remodelled, especially in the 17th century. The monastery now functions as a nunnery and one of the major pilgrimage sites in Georgia. The monastery is built on the tomb of St. Nino, the female evangelist who brought Christianity to Georgia in the 4th century and her relics are shrined there.
As you come down from the monastery the bright red roofed houses of Signagi welcome you. Signagi serves as one of the most popular tourist spots due to its location at the heart of Georgia’s wine region. This small town derives its beauty from its picturesque landscapes, pastel houses and narrow cobble stone streets. Located on a steep hill Signagi over looks vast Alazani valley with the Caucasus Mountains in the background. The small town has a wall or a fortress built around it known as the city wall. When viewing aerial pictures, it looks similar to the great wall of China. Had read about the famous local restaurant called the “Host of Signagi”, so lunch had to be at this lovely place filled with warmth. Food was excellent along with a glass of local wine.
There was no much time to waste as I had to reach the Kareba winery before they could close. So got back in the car ready for the 2 hours’ drive down the mountains winding roads. Winery Kareba is a large and unique Georgian winery offering tours and wine tasting, Conducted inside the long man made tunnels lined with wine for aging. The total length of the winery is around 8km and only 2 tunnels are open for the tourists out of the 15 tunnels. The tunnels keep the temperature relatively constant and cool facilitating the storage of wine. The annual production of wine at this winery is 3 million bottles.
There are different packages for the wine tours. It’s quite cold in the tunnels and if you have no sufficient warm clothes, shawls are provided at the entrance of the tunnel. My package allowed me the tunnel tour, Tasting of 4 types of wine, making of the famous Churchkela, Chacha degustation and baking of Georgian bread. At the end of the tour bought 2 bottles of their best Kareba wines. My guide, a cute local girl(Sharuk khan fan) got quite impressed by me, took a selfie with me and walked me upto my car. It turned out to be a memorable trip and day. On the way back to Tbilisi, couldn’t resist the beautiful landscape and was forced to pull over for some mind blowing pictures in fading light. As it was still early, drove straight up the mountain to the Mtatsminda National park. The park is built on a cliff overlooking Tbilisi and is a beautiful place with lots of entertainment for kids. The complete city of Tbilisi is visible from the top and the pleasure of viewing the fully lit city at night is worth every penny spent.
They also have a funicular complex with a wide range of restaurants. For the ones who have not heard of Funicular, it is one of the modes of transport which uses cable traction for movement on a steep slope. 2 passenger cars are attached to the opposite ends of a cable rope looped over a pulley wheel at the upper end of the track. So that when one vehicle is ascending, the other one is descending the track. The experience of riding the funicular was breath-taking and every time you see or do something new, it gives you a sense of satisfaction and achievement. Being the last night in Georgia, tasted few more local dishes and beers for dinner. Loved and enjoyed the food throughout my stay in Georgia. Once back in the hotel, packed the bags and kept them ready for departure.
Day 5 had just arrived so quickly. Flight back to Dubai was at 3 pm. With the morning free, went to visit the Holy Trinity Cathedral. Commonly known as the Sameba, it’s the main cathedral of the Georgian orthodox church. Constructed between 1995 and 2004 it is the 3rd tallest Eastern orthodox cathedral in the world and one of the largest religious building in the world. It is a synthesis of traditional styles dominating the Georgian church architecture at various stages in history and has some byzantine undertone. It is one of the must see places in Tbilisi.
Since my interest leans towards old things and antiques a visit to the dry bridge was a must. This is the place where people put up stalls by the road side and sell old things. There were several things of interest to me such as old phones, typewriters, cameras, knives, etc. But unfortunately my bags were full and packed. Also had to reach the airport on time as I had to return the car to the rental agency.
All good things have to come to an end and also did this expedition. Overall, completely satisfied with the trip. One of the most affordable place where good food and drinks are available very cheap. People are very friendly (but Indians get less attention). The country side is pristine and untouched. Would love to be back again to explore the other half of the country. Like to end by saying “Memories are created and made by you and can’t be bought”. See you all till the next expedition later this year.
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